By Basiran 
The global fashion landscape is currently experiencing a significant infusion of South Asian aesthetics, with traditional elements like the lehenga, dupatta, and jhumka finding new life and appreciation on international runways and in mainstream style. Silhouettes and artisanal techniques long recognized as "desi" are now being embraced and celebrated, often after periods of being overlooked or even disparaged. This global embrace, however, presents a nuanced narrative on home ground, where a wave of new-age designers is skillfully reinterpreting ancestral crafts for a younger, globally-connected clientele, sparking both justified pride and necessary dialogue. As the influence of South Asian fashion continues to dominate social media feeds and digital mood boards, particularly with the approaching summer festival season, exemplified by events like Coachella, a closer look at brands championing this cultural renaissance is warranted. EnVi has identified seven South Asian brands that are poised to infuse festival looks with a rich blend of culture, heritage, and contemporary flair.
The Global Surge of South Asian Influence
The current fashion moment marks a significant shift in how South Asian design elements are perceived. Historically, certain traditional garments and techniques, deeply rooted in the subcontinent’s diverse cultural tapestry, were sometimes relegated to niche markets or perceived as overly traditional. However, a confluence of factors, including increased global connectivity, a growing appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship, and a desire for unique cultural expression, has propelled these elements into the global spotlight. The "West’s stamp of approval" is not merely an endorsement but a reflection of a broader cultural exchange, where once-underappreciated crafts are now seen as aspirational and sophisticated.
This phenomenon is particularly relevant in the context of global music and arts festivals, which have become powerful platforms for fashion experimentation and self-expression. These events, attracting diverse international audiences, provide fertile ground for designers to showcase pieces that blend cultural heritage with modern, wearable trends. The current season, with its packed festival lineup, offers an opportune moment to explore how South Asian brands are not only participating in this trend but actively shaping it.
Spotlight on South Asian Brands Leading the Charge
The following brands represent a spectrum of design philosophies, all united by their commitment to South Asian heritage, innovative craftsmanship, and appeal to a contemporary, globally-minded consumer.
Abacaxi NYC: A Tropical Tapestry of Ancestral Crafts
Sheena Sood’s New York-based label, Abacaxi, named after the Portuguese word for pineapple, is a vibrant testament to the daily wearability of ancestral crafts. The brand’s ethos is deeply personal, drawing inspiration from Sood’s childhood experiences of shopping in India. Abacaxi was founded on the principle that traditional techniques should not be confined to special occasions but integrated into everyday wardrobes. This philosophy fosters a unique community that spans from cotton farms in Tamil Nadu to artisan collectives in Peru and workshops in New Delhi, highlighting a commitment to ethical sourcing and a global network of skilled craftspeople.
Abacaxi’s designs are characterized by bold colors, a distinct tropical spirit, and a focus on ethical production. The silhouettes often incorporate elegant draping, rich textures, and an undeniable sense of character. For the upcoming festival season, pieces like the Knit Openwork Halter Top and Sweater Shorts in "Bubble Tape Pink" offer a playful, crochet-infused aesthetic perfect for vibrant summer days. For those seeking a more polished yet distinctive look, the Zipper Cowl Dress, presented in a cosmic gingham print with a custom abacaxi flower zipper pull, provides a chic nod to Y2K fashion. The brand’s commitment to sustainability and its fusion of global influences with Indian artisanal practices make it a compelling choice for conscious consumers looking to make a statement.
MIRCHI BY KIM: Gen Z’s Fiery Take on Nostalgia
The name "MIRCHI," derived from the South Asian word for chili pepper, aptly describes the bold and spirited nature of Kimaya Singh’s eponymous womenswear brand. This Gen Z darling has garnered approval from trendsetters across India and New York City, offering a collection that is as hot and impactful as its namesake. MIRCHI BY KIM’s designs are a layered exploration of femininity and nostalgia, with each piece meticulously handcrafted by artisans.
The brand’s signature offerings include sparkly miniskirts, slinky halter tops reminiscent of the early 2000s, and the iconic red chili tank tops. For festival-goers, the fringed Kali Set offers an opportunity to tap into divine femininity, while the upcycled Zarina Denim Jacket provides a retro Bollywood-inspired cowboy aesthetic. This collection’s appeal lies in its ability to blend contemporary trends with a deep understanding of cultural references, creating pieces that are both playful and deeply rooted in a specific sartorial nostalgia. The brand’s success underscores the growing demand for unique, handcrafted items that tell a story and connect with a younger generation’s desire for authentic self-expression.
RESCHA: A Fusion of Cultures and Sustainable Fibers
Synonymous with the Hindi word "resha" meaning yarn, Rescha is a cult favorite label that exclusively utilizes deadstock and sustainable fibers. Founder Charlotte Chowdhury, whose French Indian heritage is evident in the brand’s design language, operates between Paris and Jaipur. This transatlantic approach allows Rescha to explore blended cultures and reimagine traditional motifs, such as the bindi, in unexpected ways. The brand challenges conventional fashion norms by pairing knitted t-shirts with raw silk skirts, creating knitted and jeweled slippers, and crafting chiffon shirts that artfully play with suggestion and transparency.
Rescha embodies an explosion of textures and a profound celebration of Indian artisanship. For festival fashion, the DOLLY silk scarf, adorned with embroidered flower motifs, offers a touch of delicate beauty, while the KHEL jacket in raw silk provides a stylish and breezy option for desert evenings. The brand’s commitment to sustainability, combined with its sophisticated fusion of Western and Eastern design sensibilities, positions it as a significant player in the ethical fashion movement. Its ability to subvert expectations while honoring traditional craftsmanship is a hallmark of its unique appeal.
COLLECTED XX: Preserving Heritage Through Textile Art
Collected XX operates as a vital textile art conservation forum, dedicated to preserving the rich heritage of South Asian handwoven fabrics and the intricate techniques associated with them across various ethnicities of the subcontinent. The collective fosters collaborations with master artisans from across Pakistan, engaging in a rigorous process of examination, treatment, and reconstruction of textiles. By cultivating authentic relationships with artisans, Collected XX provides a transparent platform that not only preserves ancestral crafts but also drives innovation and authentically redefines cultural narratives in fashion.
For the festival season, Collected XX offers a unique "desi" upgrade to the ubiquitous graphic tee. The Yasmine Graphic T Shirt serves as a canvas for evocative Indofuturist artwork, merging contemporary design with cultural storytelling. Furthermore, the Spineflower Denim Shirt offers another iteration of the popular cowboy-inspired look, but with a distinct South Asian interpretation. This piece is intricately embellished with hand-embroidered wildflowers and tassels, showcasing the brand’s dedication to intricate detail and traditional artistry. Collected XX’s mission is crucial in an era where cultural heritage is increasingly commodified, emphasizing the importance of understanding and supporting the source of these traditions.
GUNDI STUDIOS: Empowering the "Female Thug"
"I was tired of seeing representations of meek South Asian women in the media and decided to create my own character and space for girls like me," states Natasha Sumant, the visionary behind GUNDI STUDIOS. Established in 2018, the brand embodies the spirit of "Gundi," a colloquial Hindi term for a "female thug," celebrating women who live life on their own terms. GUNDI STUDIOS champions the "misfit girls," actively addressing the historical dismissal of South Asian women from the fashion industry through its campaigns featuring brown women and a supply chain rooted in rural India.
The brand’s aesthetic is defined by an exquisite fusion of overlooked traditions, age-old techniques, and daring craftsmanship. For festival chic, the Kaali Saree Dress, a sheer black garment with elegant draping, offers a sophisticated yet bold statement. Complementing this is the Sona Bag, crafted from Mashru silk and meticulously hand-smocked and hand-sewn by artisans in Jodhpur, India, providing a stylish and culturally rich accessory. GUNDI STUDIOS represents a powerful movement towards reclaiming narratives and celebrating the multifaceted identities of South Asian women.
Outhouse Jewellery: Architectural Statements of Indian Craftsmanship
Sisters Kaabia and Sasha Grewal have established Outhouse Jewellery as a formidable force in the costume jewellery landscape, both within India and on a global scale. Their designs are characterized by their bold, dramatic, and architectural qualities, designed to be the focal point of any ensemble. With over 13 years in the industry, the Grewal sisters have carved a unique niche by infusing their creations with theatricality, intentionality, and an unwavering commitment to impeccable craftsmanship.
Outhouse Jewellery has consistently maintained a global identity, with its pieces most recently seen on BLACKPINK’s Jisoo in the group’s music video for "GO." This international visibility underscores the brand’s universal appeal. For those looking to elevate their festival look beyond conventional accessories, the delicately sculpted Koko Alchemy Choker, available in a dual metallic tone, offers a modern alternative to earlier trends. Alternatively, the Crimson Relic Bangle provides a statement piece that is both fluid and sculptural, adorned with rich maroon glass stones designed to capture attention. The brand’s ability to blend traditional Indian aesthetics with contemporary design sensibilities has solidified its position as a leader in statement jewellery.
ZOHRA RAHMAN: Deconstructing Heritage with Global Flair
Artist and jewellery designer Zohra Rahman’s eponymous label is a sophisticated exploration of her South Asian heritage, infused with global influences. Rahman’s work is dedicated to deconstructing and reinterpreting traditional motifs and notions of identity. Her pieces are handcrafted in a modest atelier in Lahore, and have been recognized on an international stage, gracing celebrities such as FKA Twigs and Hanni from the K-pop group NewJeans. Operating between New York City and Lahore, Rahman’s designs are informed by her dual cultural experiences and her keen observation of the aesthetic tensions between South Asia and the West.
Rahman’s rendition of the iconic jhumka, the Djinn Jhumkas, is a prime example of her innovative approach. These earrings possess an architectural quality and create a captivating windchime-like effect with every movement. Another notable piece is the Studded Allah Amulet, a contemporary reimagining of the protective taweez. This amulet features the brand’s signature chain-link style and is adorned with a riveted inscription of Allah in Arabic, showcasing a respectful yet modern interpretation of religious and cultural symbols. Rahman’s work exemplifies a thoughtful engagement with heritage, transforming traditional elements into contemporary art pieces.
The Imperative of Cultural Appreciation and Preservation
In an era where South Asian cultural elements are increasingly being adopted and, at times, misused as a fashion commodity in the West, the importance of discretion and genuine appreciation cannot be overstated. True inspiration from a culture necessitates a deep understanding of its roots, the historical contexts, and the multifaceted factors that have shaped its artistic expressions. As globalization continues to impact languages, traditions, and communities worldwide, a critical step towards meaningful engagement is the active support and preservation of artisan families who have relied on their crafts for generations. These designers, through their innovative work, are not only contributing to the fashion industry but are also playing a vital role in safeguarding and revitalizing cultural legacies, ensuring that these traditions endure and thrive for future generations. Their success on the global stage is a testament to the enduring power and universal appeal of South Asian artistry.
For those seeking further exploration of global talent in fashion, EnVi‘s recap of Asian NYFW offers additional insights into the dynamic and evolving landscape of fashion from diverse cultural backgrounds.
